Build a Wall Clip
We show you how to build your own Wall Clip to store video game controllers on the wall.
The Wall Clip is essentially a heavy wire in flexible tubing. The key to the design is it's unique shape. This shape has 2 positions and four points that can be adjusted to provide a balanced, grasping action to hold your controllers.

Assembled and ready to install.
Build Steps
- Step 1: Get Parts, Tools, and Materials
- Step 2: Straighten the Wire
- Step 3: Cut Vinyl Caps
- Step 4: Assemble Tubing and Bumpers
- Step 5: Setup Bending Tool
- Step 6: First Bend
- Step 7: Second Bend
- Resource - VIDEO: Straightening Heavy Wire by Hand
- Resource - VIDEO: First and Second Bend
Be aware that safety is your responsibility. Please read our Safety Warning and Disclaimer before you start.
Introduction
The Wall Clip is essentially a heavy wire in flexible tubing. The key to the design is it's unique shape. This shape has 2 positions and four points that can be adjusted to provide a balanced, grasping action to hold your controllers.

Assembled and ready to install.
Step 1: Get Parts, Tools, and Materials
To build a Wall Clip you will need the following:
Parts
- 1, LLDPE or LDPE plastic tube (10 in. long, 0.25 in. OD, 0.170 in. ID)
- 1, solid copper wire (#8 awg, 9.875 in. long)
- 2, vinyl end caps (1 in. long x 0.234 in. ID)
- 1, cable clamp
- 1, wall anchor
- 1, screw (#8 x 1.25 in. long)
- 1, screw cap (optional)

Clockwise, left to right: LLDPE tube, copper wire, vinyl caps, screw, screw cap, wall anchor, cable clamp.
Tools and Materials
- 1, sch 40 PVC reducing tee (Soc, 1 in. x 1 in. x 0.75 in.)
- 1, sch 40 PVC elbow (Soc, 1 in.)
- 1, sch 40 PVC pipe (1 in. x 12 in. long)
- 1, ruler
- 1, wide-mouth clamp
- 1, sheet of wood (minimum of 0.5 in. x 6 in. x 12 in. long, unneeded if wire is straight)
- 1, wood plank (roughly 2 in. x 4 in. x 12 in. long, unneeded if wire is straight)
- 1, knife
- 1, roll masking tape
- 1, pen
- 1, pair work gloves

Clockwise, left to right: ruler, tee, elbow, pipe, wood plank, tape, wood sheet, clamp, knife, gloves, pen.
Step 2: Straighten the Wire
The copper wire has to be fairly straight. It doesn't have to be perfect, just close. (PIC 2-1) If your wire is straight you can move onto the next step. If not, read on.
Straightening #8 wire by hand is too difficult for mortals. We need to use a mechanical system to straighten it. This is the simplest way I've found to straighten a heavy wire for our purposes. Gloves on:
(1) Setup your work area:
We are going to roll the wire on a hard surface with pressure. You will want to do this on a surface that you do not mind marking up. I'm using a small sheet of plywood; however, any hard surface will do. It is best to do this on the floor where you can use your body weight rather than pure muscle pressure to do the work. Position the wire in the center of the surface. (PIC 2-2)
(2) Press and roll the big bends:
Place the plank on one of the ends of the wire. (PIC 2-3) Just like rolling out flour (except with extreme force, and no flour or rolling pin), apply pressure onto the wire and slowly push the plank side to side a few times. The wire should roll (not slide) under the plank. Now move the plank up the wire and repeat the pressing process. Keep doing this until you have traversed the entire length of the wire. (PIC 2-4)
(3) Press and roll entire wire:
Reposition the plank lengthwise on the wire. (PIC 2-5) )Apply pressure on to the wire and push the board back and forth. (PIC 2-6) You should feel the wire rolling under the wood. If not, you need to go back to (2) and work out the big bends.
(4) Inspect wire:
After rolling the entire length of the wire about 10 times or so, check to see if the wire is straight enough. If not, roll some more. Increase the pressure, carefully adjust minor bends by hand, or change the position of the press if it doesn't seem to be working. If an end isn't straightening out, try rolling only on the offending end. When you're done your wire should be mostly straight. It won't be perfect, which is fine. (PIC 2-7)
Straightening Heavy Wire By Hand
Step 3: Cut Vinyl Caps
The vinyl caps are used as bumpers to grip the controller in the clip, and as end caps to protect the wall. All we have to do is cut them in half to produce everything we need.
(1) Prep Cutting Surface:
We are going to cut the caps in half with a knife, so you will want to choose an appropriate surface to work on. I'm using a small sheet of wood. (PIC 3-1)
(2) Draw Cutting Guide:
On a piece of paper, draw two straight, parallel lines 1/2 inch apart. Tape the paper onto your cutting surface. These lines will be your cutting guides. (PIC 3-2)
(3) Position the Cap and Ruler:
Lay the cap so it's open end is lined up with one of the lines. (PIC 3-3) Place the ruler over the cap lined up with the second line on the paper and press the cap flat. Hold it in place. (PIC 3-4)
(4) Cut First Cap:
Place the knife against the straight edge and rest the tip on the surface just above the cap. (PIC 3-5) Check to see where your fingers are...let's keep them out of the way. Rock the knife down while applying pressure and cut the vinyl cap. You will now have a 1/2 inch bumper and 1/2 inch cap. (PIC 3-6)
(5) Cut Second Cap:
Repeat steps (3) and (4) for the second cap.
Step 4: Assemble Tubing and Bumpers
Let's assemble the wire, tubing, and bumpers (caps come later).
(1) Tubing:
Slide the wire into the tubing. Make sure the wire does not extend past the ends of the tube. If it does, trim the wire. (PIC 4-1, PIC 4-2)
(2) Bumpers:
Push a bumper onto the end of the tube using the table surface for leverage. (PIC 4-3) Work the bumper up the tube until it is 3 inches from the end. This may be difficult since the bumpers tend to stick to the tubing. Fingernails help to grab and drag it into position. Be careful not to bend the wire in the tube during this process. (PIC 4-4) Repeat for the other bumper on the other side of the tubing. (PIC 4-5)
Step 5: Setup Bending Tool
The key to the Wall Clip is forming the correct shape. This can be achieved using the Sch 40 PVC elbow, tee, and 12 inch pipe.
(1) Cut PVC pipe:
Cut the 12 inch PVC pipe down to about 1, 6 inch piece and 2, 3 inch pieces. These are used as levers, so the sizes do not need to be precise. Longer pieces are fine, though shorter pieces might make it difficult to bend and hold. (PIC 5-1)
(2) Assemble the bending tool:
Press the elbow onto the tee until you have a 1/4 inch gap between them that will fit the tubing. The tee should be perpendicular to the elbow and have a sung fit since it has to withstand bending forces. These two fittings are not designed to fit together so it will take some force to connect them. If you are having trouble forcing it with your hands, use a rubber mallet or sand off some of the lettering on the side of the T fitting to make it easier. (PIC 5-2, PIC 5-3, PIC 5-4)
(3) Clamp the bending tool:
Clamp the bending tool to a corner of a table. The elbow should be at the edge of the table to maximize clearance to perform the bend. Make sure the clamp is tight. (PIC 5-5)
(4) Level the bending tool:
Align the tee fitting so it is close to level. The T fitting usually has a manufacturing line on it. You can use this line to get it close. To adjust, gently tap with a hammer. Make sure to maintain your 1/4 inch gap between the fittings. (PIC 5-6)
You are now ready for production!
Step 6: First Bend
Let's do the first bend.
(1) Mark bending point:
Tear off a small piece of masking tape and put a mark on it. Use your ruler to find the half-way point on the tube (should be at 5 inches). Place the mark on the tape at that point. This will be the bending point. (PIC 6-1)
(2) Bend:
Place the tube on top of the bending tool so the masking tape mark lines up with the manufacturing line on the tee. Make sure the copper wire does not protrude from either of the ends of the tube. You may want to use your pinky fingers to hold the wire in place while you start the bend. (PIC 6-2) Now push the tube down slowly while applying even pressure to both sides of the tube until it forms a "U". (PIC 6-3, PIC 6-4)
(3) Check:
Remove the tube and check to make sure the ends are close to even, and the copper wire does not protrude from the ends. (PIC 6-5) If so, you're done. If not, (for example: you sneezed while bending) you'll need to unbend the "U" by hand, go back to Step 2 to straighten the wire, and give it another go. (PIC 6-6)
Step 7: Second Bend
You'll want to perform this bend on a firm, slick, non-marking surface on the floor. A tight nap carpet or rug is a good choice. Also, you'll need to put on a clean pair of socks. White works (we haven't tried other colors).
(1) Assemble the bending tooling:
Unclamp the bending tool from the table. Stick the 6 inch pipe into the elbow, and the 2, 3 inch pieces into each end of the tee. (PIC 7-1)
(2) Mount tubing into bending tool:
Mount the tubing onto the bending tool as shown. (PIC 7-2)
(3) Bend:
Make sure the tape mark is aligned with the manufacturing line on the tee. (PIC 7-3) Hold the tube in place firmly with your thumb and set it on the floor. (PIC 7-4) Apply pressure to the tee to cause it to move towards the floor and bend the tubing. (PIC 7-5) Now place one foot on each side of the pipe sticking out from the tee and put weight on the pipe to hold it tightly to the floor. (PIC 7-6). Roll the 6 inch handle forward until it stops. (PIC 7-7, PIC 7-8)
(4) Check:
Remove the tubing and set it on a table surface to see how even it is. It doesn't have to be perfect, just close. If necessary, gently bend the legs so so they touch the table surface evenly. (PIC 7-9, PIC 7-10)
(5) End caps:
Put the end caps on the ends of the tube. (PIC 7-11)
Congratulations! You just made a Wall Clip. Now you need to install and fit it to your controller. Check out our using guide to get the job done.
How to do the first and second bend.

















































